© Noel Rands 2024
8 members and friends (and a small daughter) flew to Naples on 7th with 4 more arriving the following day. Naturally, Easyjet was an hour late so we arrived after 11pm. A nice man, called Luca, with a people carrier invited us to join him at 10 Euros a head (child free) and we were too tired to argue. Our hotel, The Nuovo Rebecchino, was just off Corso Garibaldi. It was probably 3 star but the rooms were clean, breakfast fine and the staff extremely helpful. We should have been met on Friday by, Lara, an Italian friend of mine from Venice who would act as our guide but health problems meant she dropped out on Monday 3rd June. With no arrangements made, I went into panic mode but managed to book the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli for the Monday morning.
Fiona Moffitt, Sandra Mackenzie Smith, Noel Brehony and I went in search of a hotel for the group dinner on the Friday evening. We looked around an area recommended by Lara: the one likely looking restaurant made it clear they were fully booked. On the flight over, a gentleman sitting next to Fiona had recommended a restaurant called “Mimi” which turned out to be 5 mins from our hotel. We booked and it was an inspired choice. It was excellent. A couple of glasses of Prosecco before dinner helped but the food, service and atmosphere were everything you could want. We arrived at about 7.45; upstairs was empty but when we left it was packed. Italians like to eat late!
The next day was Pompeii in the morning and Sorento in the afternoon. We took the train from Naples which was jammed packed. At one end of our carriage, a lady arrived with an elderly man who could barely stand; she asked some teenagers, who had grabbed the double row of seats, twice for a place. They ignored her and an American with a child on his knee gave up his seat. At my end of the carriage, again teenagers had grabbed the seats and ignored the old and child carrying. Not a great advertisement for Italian youth.
Pompeii is, of course magnificent. It was a huge city and seems incredible that it was wiped out so quickly. There was so much to remind one that it was a much lived in city, including the cart tracks in the ground (which are similar to the width of a train wheels in the UK). It helped that the weather was wonderful. We had a Pizza lunch by the entrance and train trip to Sorento. A very attractive town and after a stroll around and a climb down to the seafront, coffee, cold drinks and ice-creams in a lovely café helped. We took the boat back to Naples. We had dinner in the pizza restaurant next to our hotel and it was terrific. The pizzas were excellent (“The best in Naples”) as were the grilled tiger prawns and a pasta dish. And no taxi needed to get back to the hotel.
Sunday was Capri (3 wise ones dropped out) and, to me, a major disappointment. We got the last tickets for the boat (most on my bank card). It is extremely crowded, extremely expensive and Sorento was considerably better. The blue Grotto, a sea trip to which I was looking forward, was “closed” and a bus journey up a hill and down didn’t add much to the day. I should add that two members of the party were more adventurous, got a bus to the very top and thought the views were wonderful
We arranged for Luca’s people carrier to meet us at the port in Naples but it would only take 8 and so I went on the Metro. I had warned everyone about pick pockets in Naples. Hmmmmm. The fare was Euros1.50 and I struggled with my bank card but, as I was just three stops from the hotel, I put my wallet in my trouser pocket. Boarding the train, I was surrounded by a rush of people, tripped, grabbed,(in fact “mugged” by a gang) apologised for my error and arrived at Corso Garibaldi sans wallet, Bank card, and the money I had received for the boat trip (less meals etc for the day; about Euros 250). My UK travel card went as well and I fled to my hotel room, feeling upset and not a little bit stupid.
Next morning, thanks to Reza’s phone (mine wouldn’t work) I contacted HSBC, cancelled the card and then went to the Central Police Station to make report. (I called HSBC again after I got home and they refunded the Eusros100 that had been taken off m y card). A young Bulgarian man at the police station told me he had lost all his papers including wallet and passport at the Airport so maybe I got off lightly.
At 11am we went to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli where we were amazingly well received. Our first guide, a young man, spoke perfect English and said he had spent 7 years at Goldsmiths. He showed us around the Italian statues and other exhibitions showing extreme patience. His lady colleague conducted the tour of the Egyptian Collection which was small but beautifully presented. Such an enjoyable and informative visit.
Across from the museum was an arcade, through there and another excellent restaurant. Afterwards 4 of us went in search of a Caravaggio which we found. It was amazing and the journey took us through a far more interesting part of Naples than the vicinity of our hotel.
All in all (apart from the idiot who ignored his own advice to put his wallet in a money belt) in was a successful trip. It helped that were such a lovely group, the weather was perfect, the restaurants excellent and well worth the visit. Pompeii will linger in my mind for a long time.
Next year? Well, I’m thinking about it and about taking a better body belt!
NLR 30/7/24
© Noel Rands 2024